Africa Fashion Week London Aims Big This Season

The fifth edition of Africa Fashion Week London, which is scheduled to hold between 7th and 8th of August at the Olympia, London, is set to deliver a platform that might change the economics of design on the continent, writes Solomon Elusoji

Since debuting in 2011, Africa Fashion Week London (AFWL) has gone from strength to super-strength in its attempt to change how fashion is done and perceived in Africa. The balance of trade is tilted towards the developed west, because the African fashion industry, although harbouring a few out-of-the-box successes, is still largely undeveloped, with over a billion people to cater for. AFWL hopes to solve this conundrum, by showcasing young, upcoming, and unknown African designers to the world.

“It’s a conscious decision we made,” AFWL’s creative director, Sola Oyebade told THISDAY during a press conference in Lagos announcing the fifth edition. “We don’t go for the big names. We try to give a platform to young designers and help push their products out there. We’ve had top designers approach us, but told them, no, this is not your market.”

This, the bringing of the unknown to global consciousness, is invaluable in setting up the continent as a fashion destination. A plethora of accomplished designers can only be a good thing, as it boosts retail trade, even across the Atlantic. It probably accounts for why the South African Department of Trade and Industry is sponsoring 20 designers to AFWL 2015. Other African countries, including Nigeria, should do the same.

About 68 designers from all parts of the world will take part in the two day event, which will have three shows per day.

“Last year, we had designers that came from Thailand showcasing African fabrics. They are coming again this year. We also have designers coming from Uganda, Hong Kong and other places. So those two days, the 7th and 8th August will be remarkable for fashionistas ,” Oyebade said.

There will also be emerging designers such as Taiwanese Aimme Ku, who is flying the flag for Africa-inspired fashion in her native Taipei City; and a welcome back for one of the favourites of the 2014 catwalk, Nigerian designer, Needlepoint. The winner of the Mercedes Benz Best Designer in Africa, Mary Martin, will also make her bow on the AFWL 2015 catwalk.

The AFWL 2015 brand ambassadors are top models, Victoria Michaels and Noella Musunka Coursaris. Michaels is one of the most sought-after models for leading businesses in Africa. She has played major roles in commercials for Hertz Rent-a-car, Vodafone, MTN, Nexcafe, Da-Vica and Bela-Aqua mineral water. Noella, meanwhile, is also an international model and the founder of Malaika, a non-profit organisation which is aimed lives in her native Democratic Republic of Congo.

“It feels really great to be chosen as the Brand Ambassador for a globally acclaimed proudly African event like the African Fashion Week London,” Michaels has said. “I am particularly excited to be part of this grand platform that showcases the original African creativity, style and talent.

“We have a very rich fashion culture and I look forward to working with inspiring African designers from both within the continent and the Diaspora as we thrill and dazzle the world with authentic mind-blowing designs that speaks only of our incredible creativeness.”
For Noella, she is “delighted to be serving on this year’s Brand Ambassador to Africa Fashion Week London, and to help showcase the brilliant work of African designers. It has always been my belief that fashion can be a tool for breaking down barriers and transcending cultures.

“This industry has the ability to put Africa on the world stage and can provide for countless job opportunities on the ground and abroad, from local factories to international shops. It is time for the world to see the amazing talent that lies within Africa.”

Maggie Smith takes over from Chi-Chi Nwuba as the face of AFWL 2015, after being chosen in a pubic via social media. “Maggie is of Ugandan/Scottish heritage and with her beautiful personality and impressive work ethic, she is an excellent ambassador for African fashion, and the perfect representative for Africa Fashion Week London,” a press statement read.

“I’m so proud to be the face of AFWL 2015. The journey so far has been very overwhelming and the support I’ve had so far is incredible. I look forward to the rest of this experience, and I intend to enjoy every minute,” Maggie said.
Moving Forward

A rare combination of brains and beauty, Ronke Ademiluyi is the founder and headmistress of the AFWL team. At the press conference, she wears a warm smile as she touches, in brief words, on how AFWL has managed to survive to its fifth birthday.

“A lot of fashion weeks that started with us have died. We try to do everything on a very tight budget,” she says, “but if you are walking with the right team, it makes things look very easy. And, this year, a lot of people wanted to see more, and that’s why we have a larger cast of exhibition and designers, and why we are very diverse with the choices we make.”

Although there have been brand sponsorships here and there, Ronke feels AFWL could do far better with more. “We need more sponsors to help promote this project,” she says.

“I know that she (Ronke) subsidises the cost of designer’s showcasing on AFWL, out of her own pocket,” Oyebade chimes. “With the kind of tight budgets that we have, I don’t know how she does it year in, year out, because it’s unbelievable.”

AFWL’s coordinator is Abiola Aloba, a full bearded middle-aged man with caustic humour. He gesticulates with his hands, while speaking with fiery passion in his eyes, like that of a religious zealot.

“If you look at it carefully, we’ve grown in leaps and bounds,” he says. “In 2011, AFWL debuted at Bishops gate in London, and the place was totally jam-packed. In 2012, during the Olympics, it was at Petersfield Market Hall, and the crowd was unprecedented. Old Truman Brewery hosted us in 2013, and we had the likes of Clint Eastwood and Alexander Burke in attendance. The crowd was so much that even I was locked out.”

In 2014, they moved to the Olympia, which will also hold the 2015 edition.

“For four years, we’ve had a super run,” Aloba enthused, “In 2015, we want to have a super-duper event. We want to have an event that will shake London.”