Hoop Earrings Circling Back To Singer Sade’s 1980s Style

There’s nothing inherently shocking about this simple classic style, but I was a little startled to see it prominently used in a high-fashion context. In the past few years, jewellery design has tended more towards the unlikely and avant-garde. Dior created a sensation with its “tribale” studs, duos of pearly or bright enamelled balls that grip the lobe from both sides. Last autumn, the runways of Celine and Louis Vuitton pushed jewellery asymmetry: models wore a single, dangling eclectic earring.

How could the comparatively straightforward hoop compete? By playing the long game. And now may be its moment. Even Celine is selling wide, hammered brass versions. “I think hoops are coming back in a big way,” says Laura Freedman, owner of Broken English, a jewellery shop and online store that ships internationally (brokenenglishjewelry. com). Recently at the Couture jewellery show in Las Vegas, Freedman noticed many jewellers showing 1970s-style pieces, particularly hoops. “There’s always a place for hoops,” she says.

And there are seemingly always women, such as Freedman, who are devoted to them. Samira Nasr, an editor at US Elle magazine, has worn hoops for more than 20 years. “I think Sade sealed the deal for me when I was in high school,” says Nasr, referring to the British-Nigerian singer whose 80s-era signature was large, gold hoops. Nasr rotates between three gold pairs, one custom-made by jewellery designer Jennifer Fisher. Nasr’s clothing style is subdued, classic, edging on tomboyish. The swingy earrings add a touch of femininity and lighthearted fun. That’s the thing about hoops: even if you try to sober them up with work clothes, they’re never entirely serious. Altuzarra says he styled his resort show with hoops for the “sense of whimsy and play” they brought to the proceedings.

That diverting quality can sometimes be an issue. British television host June Sarpong, a self-professed hoops addict, pointed out she probably wouldn’t wear hoops to an important business meeting. “They might be distracting,” she says. “I don’t want someone talking about my earrings while I’m trying to sell a show.”

Some hoops are more of a talking point than others, with everyday gold versions by California designer Kendall Conrad (kendallconraddesign.com) at one end of the spectrum and, at the other, gem-encrusted ones by Sabine G (pictured).

The look can vary greatly even within a single jewellery collection, such as that of Paris-based designer Aurelie Bidermann (aurelie­bidermann.com), another trends-be-damned hoop lover who offers about 12 styles, from sweeter, smaller ones such as an enamelled gold model to full-blown boho-chic “Dreamcatcher” danglers.

A shopper is spoiled for choice. Still, that didn’t stop a few women from emailing fledgling jewellery designer Andrea Lipsky-Karasz last year to find out when she would start making hoops for her label Tilda Biehn (tildabiehn.com).

“That doesn’t happen a lot,” she says. Lipsky-Karasz debuted her modestly sized Comet hoops a few months ago.

“I’m thinking about a larger pair,” she adds. “But there are a million hoops in the world. I don’t want to just do the same thing.”